American Rye

Cowboy movies seem to invariably have at least one scene where someone swaggers into a saloon and orders a shot of Rye. vintage rye bottle Singing cowboy Tex Ritter has a famous song devoted to the subject of Rye Whiskey. There was a time, in fact, when the word "whiskey" in America meant Rye Whiskey, almost exclusively. From the 1700s, when farmers in the foothills of the Alleghenies discovered the soil and weather were ideal for growing the rye to make this distinctively American spirit. Even after the 1794 Whiskey Rebellion, when farmer/distillers relocated to corn country, whiskey meant Rye. In terms of American mythology, any cowboy bellying up to any bar in the west asking for whiskey was actually ordering Rye. That situation lasted until sometime around the Prohibition in the 1920s. The spirit was so omnipresent in the developing frontier that our mythological cowboy didn't have to specify what kind of whiskey he wanted, because it was already understood.

From this point on, I'm going to use the word Rye to refer exclusively to American Rye Whiskey (in other words, we're not talking Canadian, which is quite different, and typically a blend, and we're not talking Bourbon, either). To be labeled American Rye, by law, requires that the Rye must be made from a mash that is composed of at least 51% rye grain (typically the mash also includes corn and malted barley). It is distilled to no more (and sometimes less) than 160 proof (80% alcohol) and then aged in new oak barrels that have been deliberately charred. At the time the whiskey is placed in the barrels, it must not be more than 125 Proof. Rye whiskey that has been aged at least two years may be described on the bottle as "straight rye whiskey."

Rye was once the American beverage, unique to the nation. The distillation of rye was practiced by small farmers perpetuated up and down the Eastern Seaboard, particularly in Pennsylvania and Virginia; yes, George Washington really did distill his own Rye at Mount Vernon. But after Prohibition was repealed, Rye had drastically faded in popularity as Bourbon's reputation grew. Rye was so eclipsed by Bourbon (typically Bourbon is sweeter, less peppery, in part because it's distilled from predominantly corn mash) that traditional Rye cocktails like Whiskey Sours, Manhattans, Highballs, and Old Fashioneds, became Bourbon cocktails. The "ultimate" Rye cocktail, the Sazerac of New Orleans alone seems to have escaped translation into a Bourbon equivalent.

Fortunately, Rye does seem to be gaining again in popularity; currently there are about twenty distilleries, which, between them produce forty or so Rye whiskeys. The change is Rye popularity is trackable; 2008 saw an increase in Rye sales of 30% over the previous year. Long term distillers are aware of the increase in interest too; for instance Jim Beam has introduced a "Premium rye." Sadly, Rye is still something to be looked for. As a comparison, on November 29, 2006 the New York Times reported that Jim Beam, which produces both Old Overholt and Jim Beam ryes, shipped 32,000 cases of rye in 2005, compared to 3.9 million cases of bourbon.

While some of the smaller distillers' Rye can be hard to find, you're likely to be able to find Old Overholt, the oldest continuously operated Rye distiller in the U.S, though no longer an independent family owned concern. Interestingly enough, Rye is not so much gaining popularity as a sippin' drink, like say, Single Malts, or Bourbon, but in mixed drinks, where the slight peppery or "spicy" qualities of Rye can shine even when tempered with citrus and sweeter tastes.

Old Overholt is now owned by the same corporation that owns another likely Rye you'll spot for sale, Jim Beam "Yellow Label' Rye, and finally, Wild Turkey Rye. Other Rye distillers around today include the large conglomerate Heaven Hill who produce Pikesville Supreme Straight Rye Whiskey, made in the "Maryland or Potomac style," and somewhat harder to find then Heaven Hills other Rye brand, Rittenhouse Straight Rye Whiskey, made in the "classic Pennsylvania or Monongahela" style, also available in the "Bond" version, Rittenhouse Straight Rye Whiskey Bottled in Bond (100 proof). Rittenhouse Rye won the 2006 North American Whiskey of the Year competition in San Francisco. Old Potrero, a small-batch artisan-crafted single malt Rye—no other grain is uses—is a product of the tiny distilling offshoot of Anchor Brewing (of Anchor Steam Beer fame), and Templeton Rye Whiskey.

There are also several Rye bottlers; they don't distill their own Rye, but they do age and bottle it; Preiss Imports under the Hirsch brand bottles a 22-year old Straight Rye. Black Maple Hill, owned by CVI Brands, bottles an 18-year old Rye, and a very hard to find 23 year old Rye. The 23 year old Rye will cost you upwards of $100.00, if you can find it. Both are from by "reclaimed" Rye; the aged Rye is purchased in the limited quantities that are available, and then rebranded and sold. When a particular Rye stock runs out, it runs out. Buffalo Trace Distillery bottles and distributes both Sazerac Rye Whiskey in 6 and 18 year old varities, and Van Winkle rye whiskeys, including a 13 year old Rye. Old Rip Van Winkle. Buffalo Trace Distillery distributes both Sazerac Rye Whiskey, most notably a highly-reputed 18 year old Rye, and, just in the last couple of years, an unfiltered, barrel-proof version called Thomas Handy Rye. Buffalo Trace Distiller also produces Van Winkle rye whiskeys, including a 13 year old Rye.

The comeback of Rye is terrific news for whiskey lovers. If you try your favorite whiskey cocktail with rye rather than bourbon, you'll find yourself enriched by the variation. I don't like Bourbon any less, I find, I just like Rye a great deal, too—so a taste for Rye effectively doubles my whiskey-drinking options.